How to fit a hubcap in 5 minutes, no tools

Fitting a hubcap isn't technical. What separates one that lasts ten years from one that flies off at the first roundabout is the order of the steps, not the force you use.

Before you start

Clean the wheel rim edge. Mud or rust on the seating edge stops the clips from locating properly. A damp cloth is enough. While you're there, check the rim isn't buckled or cracked at that point.

Work with the wheels on the ground, vehicle stationary, handbrake on. Nothing needs removing.

The four steps

  1. Find the valve. Every hubcap has a notch to clear it. Rotate the hubcap until the notch lines up with the valve.
  2. Seat the bottom. Place the lower edge against the rim and push it into place.
  3. Clip all the way round. With your palm — never your fist — press firmly, working up each side. You should hear the clips snap one by one.
  4. Check. Run a finger around the whole edge. If a section is lifted, press again there. A properly fitted hubcap sits perfectly flush.

Mistakes that cost you a hubcap

Hitting it with your fist or a mallet. You'll crack the plastic without seating it any better. Your palm is plenty.

Forgetting the valve. If the notch isn't aligned, the hubcap bows on one side and comes off. By far the number one cause.

Only clipping the sides. Top and bottom must snap too, or the hubcap works loose as you drive and eventually frees itself.

How do I remove it?

Pull firmly on the edge with both hands, starting from the bottom. No tools needed, and the clips are reusable: your wheel is neither drilled nor modified.

Unsure of your size? The fitting & size guide gives it to you in 30 seconds, and then you can create hubcaps in your own image.

The retention ring does all the work

Behind every wheel cover runs a flexible metal ring seated in a groove. That ring, and nothing else, holds the cover on: as it springs back against the inner rim lip it applies constant pressure through all 360 degrees. A wheel cover is not glued and not screwed — it lives under permanent tension. That is why a half-seated fit never lasts: the ring only bears on part of the circle.

Fitting, step by step

1. Find the valve cut-out

Most covers have a notch to clear the tyre valve. Line it up first: clip on and adjust afterwards and you will have to take the whole thing off again.

2. Present the cover flat

Hold it parallel to the wheel, not tilted. A cover offered at an angle catches on one side and refuses on the other.

3. Push with your palm, never your fist

Press firmly at twelve o'clock, then six, then the sides. You should feel the ring pass the lip — the click everyone talks about.

4. Work all the way round

This is the step everyone rushes. Go around the whole circumference with your palm, pressing every ten centimetres. As long as one sector has not clicked, the cover will leave at the first speed bump.

It will not clip on — now what?

Nine times out of ten the size is not the problem, the angle is. Take it off, start flat again, and begin from the bottom. If the cover is plainly far too small or far too large despite a correct approach, re-read the tyre sidewall: you have probably read the width instead of the diameter. Slight play, on the other hand, is normal before the ring has fully relaxed.

And to take them off?

Slide your fingers under the edge and pull sharply towards you, starting at a single point. There is no need to lever with a screwdriver: you would mark the rim and tire the ring. Removal leaves no trace, which is what makes printed covers interesting on a rental or leased vehicle.

Frequently asked questions

Do I need to take the wheel off?

No, never. Fitting is done with the wheel on the car, on the ground, with no jack and no tools.

How long for all four?

Five minutes the first time, two or three after that. The first one takes longest while you get the feel of it.

Can they go back on after a tyre change?

Yes, and that is exactly when to check the ring. Many losses happen after a garage visit, where the cover is pushed back on quickly without going all the way round.

Will it damage the rim?

No. The pressure bears on the steel lip, which has been designed for it all along — it is the same principle as factory hubcaps.